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Locked & loaded at 5 in the morning. We bought a gas station coffee, insurance for the van... you know, the standard border crossing essentials. Checked out a few spots along the way, we made the call to keep truckin' South. By 10 am we were getting breakfast at Palomar, which for some reason included 2 tequila shots and a Michelada (the perfect pairing for Huevos Rancheros). 

We turned right off the main highway and drove West through lush green valleys adorned with brightly colored poppies. Vibes were high. Blasting the Flying Burrito Brothers and Santana, we caught our first glimpse of sparkly blue sea. Perfect glass. The bumpy, dirt road rocked us around as we approached the remote beach that'd be our home for the next few days. On the north end, waves were wrapping in the best, but there were plenty of peaks to choose from.

Gorgeous burnt sienna cliffs surrounded us in our little corner of the Earth. Sitting out in the line up, you couldn't help but turn around and take in the incredible backdrop. After surfing the place all to ourselves, we came in to enjoy the much-needed sunshine and a round of cards. It felt like I hadn't had a sunburn in months and I welcomed it. At dusk, we came in from a dreamy session and cooked ourselves a fine, camp-style dinner. An incredibly tasty carne asada feast accompanied with handmade tortillas from in-town, fresh avocado and salsa. 

The night ended with us trading stories and tequila around the campfire. A canopy of bright stars overhead, we eventually wore out from the day and retired to our little encampment on the sand dunes. 

Morning came and I clambered out of my tent onto the fresh sand. Awaiting out front were perfect waist to shoulder high waves peeling all along  the vast stretch of beach. The cool morning air awakened my senses as I strolled the shore in search of shells and other beach treasures. The rest of our crew woke up and we made a pot of coffee to get going.

The day was just what we'd been missing all these Winter months. Not a cloud in the sky, sun beaming, whales out on the horizon. The water looked so inviting. We took our collection of boards, towels, beverages, plus a speaker and an umbrella. Made a little hangout spot on the sand tucked up against the cliffs. The boys drank beers and played Boche ball in between surfs. I explored the tide pools and sun bathed, happily taking on all the sun Baja had to offer.

All day we traded boards and played on the beach without a care in the world.

When sundown approached, we were all more than ready for a proper meal and another relaxing night by the bonfire. The tequila bottle was now dusted, and so were we.

photo: Alex Swanson

When we first start surfing, or perhaps when we become obsessed with it, we tend to look for a role model, an inspiration. I grew up in a time where the lady loggers were a select few, most of whom were rarely getting paid for doing what they do. Everyone had their heroes. But since I can remember, I was always in awe of OC-based shred queen, Erin Ashley. 

Read more on our Lady Shred of the month:

https://www.sanonofresurfco.com/pages/lady-shred

Write up by Hallie Rohr 

The fog rolled in swift and steady, lingering intermittently the rest of the day. Familia rider Joe Kisling @joe_kookling found some nice lines nonetheless.  Below are some pics of yesterday's action.  Photos ~ @samschafer

Please take a minute and sign this petition for safer storage at Sano! Deadline is tonight. CLICK HERE FOR LINK

@sarahbrady